This is the best darn weeder made in the country, and I think I've tried them all. I use it to dig weeds, tease out grass roots, and mix soil at planting time. Neither right nor left handed, it is lightweight and strong.
West Lebanon Supply
This is where I buy my organic fertilizers and soil amendments. They carry several lines of seeds, watering devices, tomato cages, landscape fabric and much more. They also sell pet supplies - and allow dogs in the store!
E.C. Brown Nursery
This place has an amazing selection of high quality trees, shrubs and perennials. The staff is incredibly knowledgeable. Looking for something unusual? They probably have it.
Lebanon College: Gardening: A Practical Workshop. Garden writer Henry Homeyer will teach you the basics of organic vegetable and flower gardening. From garden design to seed-starting , planting, watering, weeding, mulching, and harvesting, this course will give each student practical knowledge of gardening. Tuesday nights from 6:30-8:30 for 5 weeks, April 3-May 2.Contact Lebanon College to reserve a spot for this5-part workshop www.lebanoncollege.edu or call 603-448-2445.
AVA Gallery, Lebanon. Henry will teach 3 classes at AVA Gallery this spring. You may sign up for one or all of these workshops:
Sculpting the Living Landscape: Starting Flowers from Seed April 9; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class
Sculpting the Living Landscape: Perfect Perennials for the Upper Valley Garden April 23; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class
Sculpting the Living Landscape: Organic Techniques for Enriching Soil and Managing Pests May 7; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class
The moon attracts me the way my porch light attracts moths. I am drawn to it. I love to stare at it and I can feel its presence – particularly the full moon when I’m trying to get to sleep. Some gardeners believe that it affects plants, too, drawing up water from the soil into leaves and fruits as the moon gets bigger, pulling water and nutrients down to roots as it wanes. If the moon can affect the tides, some say, it is logical that the moon can affect our garden plants.
It’s nearly time to start artichokes, leeks and peppers indoors, so I thought I should learn more about planting by the phase of the moon. I called Sarah Milek of Cider Hill Gardens in Windsor, Vermont (www.ciderhillgardens.com) because I know she decides exactly when to plant seeds and seedlings according to the phase of the moon.
Stella Natura
Sarah bases her decisions on a biodynamic calendar called Stella Natura: Inspiration & Practical Advice for Gardeners & Professional Growers (www.stellanatura.com). The calendar explains on the cover that it is the “Biodynamic Planting Calendar Working with Cosmic Rhythms”. She told me that the calendar indicates for every day of the year, and for every hour of the day, whether it is an auspicious time to plant, transplant, weed or harvest. Following the calendar, she says, results in quicker germination, earlier crops, and better storage capabilities of her veggies.
Sarah Milek told me of a friend who planted onions according to the calendar. But he didn’t finish that day, and did so the next – even though the calendar said not to plant anything that day. Those onions did poorly – the crop was a total bust – but those planted according to the calendar thrived. Everything was the same except some were planted a day later – and very different results were obtained. It made me wonder.
Stella Natura uses the phase of the moon and the position of the planets and the constellations to determine when to plant. The calendar is based on the principles of biodynamic agriculture, first proposed by an Austrian, Rudolph Steiner, in 1924.
Rudolf Steiner (1861-1925) was a philosopher and visionary. Waldorf schools are based on his educational principles, and the biodynamic movement is an outgrowth of his philosophy of agriculture. He spoke of life forces not detectable by the physical senses, yet linking together the universe and all living things. He believed that the energy of plants can be affected not only by our actions and the weather, but also by the energy of the moon, stars and planets. His philosophy of agriculture goes beyond the principles of organic farming, dealing not only with our inputs – compost instead of chemicals, for instance – but with life forces that affect our plants.
A follower of Steiner, a German named Maria Thun, did decades of observations and record keeping to aid in determining when to plant or to work with plants. According to biodynamic principles there are four elements: earth, air, water and fire. She noticed that root crops (including potatoes, onions and leeks, which are not technically root crops) do best when sown when the moon is passing through constellations associated with the earth element. Leafy things do best when the moon is associated with the element water, flowering plants do best associated with the air, and fruits with fire. Stella Natura is based on her work.
On a practical level, it makes sense to avoid planting leafy things during a time that is optimal for flowering plants – practitioners of this way of planting believe that this will encourage bolting. Tomatoes, beans, grains and tree fruits should be planted on a fruit day, or even a flower day (as flowers are an integral part of getting fruit).
Stella Natura spells out very precise instructions, day-by-day, hour-by hour. During transition times, when the moon is moving from one constellation to another, or when other factors affect the energy of the cosmos, there are times when no planting should be done. These areas are indicated with gray in the hour-by-hour boxes. Sometimes these time last a full 24-hour period, other times they are for as little as 2-4 hours.
The calendar explains that practical considerations such as the weather can and should affect when to plant, too. If you have started tomatoes indoors and the calendar specifies that the day is auspicious for planting them outdoors, do not do so if frost is predicted. I bought the calendar and shall do some lettuce plantings indoors this spring during times designated as good for leaves, some during times for flowers, and some during the blacked out parts of the calendar. This appeals to my scientific training. I vow to keep good records, and will report back to you, my faithful readers.
Even though I started gardening as a small boy and have been gardening for over 60 years, gardening is still a bit mysterious to me. Some years my onions are large and keep well. Other years they are smaller – or they rot. The same is true for my winter squash and other crops. So it’s time to see if the moon can help me to do better. I encourage you to do the same – and let me know what you find out.
When I was a grade-schooler back in the mid-1950’s I read a lot during the summer. We had no TV, no electronic games, and obviously there was no e-mail or Facebook to suck up my time. I rode my bike, I swam, I played badminton with the next door neighbor, and I read books. Lots of books. My favorite series was about a pig named Freddy who was a detective and an adventurer.
The books were written by Walter R. Brooks who created a pig who could talk to the farmers who owned him, Mr. and Mrs. Bean, and to the other animals: Jinx the Cat, Charles the preening rooster, Hank the old white horse and Mrs. Wiggins, Wogus and Wurzburger the cows. Freddy could, somehow, type with his little trotters and was an accomplished poet. In my favorite of the series, Freddy and the Perilous Adventure, Freddy the Pig commandeered a hot air balloon and he and a few friends set off in it. I have wanted to do so ever since.
Filling the Balloon WIth Hot Air
July 6th was the one-year anniversary of my sister Ruth Anne Mitchell’s untimely death. I dreaded that the approach of that day, that memory. My friend and companion, Cindy Heath, asked me if we could do something to make that day something to look forward to, rather than dread. I thought of Freddy the Pig and decided we should sign up for a hot air balloon ride.
We took off from a tiny airstrip in Post Mills, Vermont with Brian Boland, a delightfully eccentric guy with a dark bushy beard and sunglasses that hide his eyes. Brian not only flies hot air balloons, he collects them and has a museum of all sorts of interesting stuff – cars, sidecars, balloon baskets and much more. He and friends built a life-sized brontosaurus out of scrap wood not long ago at the edge of the air strip. Brian exudes confidence, and with good reason. He is in his 40th year of ballooning, and has flown 8,133 flights – in 24 nations.
A hot air balloon is a wondrous thing. Point a stream of hot air (created by a propane burner) into the mouth of a multi-colored, rip-stop nylon balloon that is 75 ft tall and 55 ft wide, and it will gently lift you up. There is no jerky motion, no jet-propelled angst as your body is slams against an airplane seat. In fact, there are no seats. We stood in a wicker basket for the flight. There are no waiting lines, no airport security, no tickets to lose. In fact, Brian forgot to ask me for the fare, and I had to remind him that we needed to pay after the chase car returned us to our car.
Flying High in Vermont
So there we were: Brian, Cindy and me. And Freddy the Pig, though only I could see him. My sister Ruth Anne, an American who adopted Ottawa as her home 40 years ago, might have been there in the balloon, too. She loved ballooning, and once had floated over the Serengeti Plain at dawn, hovering over wildebeest and eland and elephants.
I loved looking down on trees and farms and twisty dirt roads. On Lake Fairlee and little homemade ponds. From time to time Brian would squeeze the handle of the propane heater, producing a blast of hot air that would, a few moments later, bring us slowly, gently higher. There are no quick movements in a balloon, and never did I feel even the slight bit nervous.
We watched kids from Camp Lochearn walking down the road to get their evening ice cream in Post Mills, a chase car following them in case a camper got tuckered out or developed a blister. (Are kids a bit overly tended-to these days?). One hundred kids waved and hollered and wished they were up there with Freddy and me. We flew over my favorite plant nursery in Thetford Center, Vermont, giving me a different perspective on a place I’d visited countless times to buy trees and shrubs. We floated over Interstate 91 and I felt a bit sorry for the folks hurrying along at 70 mph while we floated listlessly in the breeze.
The temperature on the ground that day was in the nineties – one of those hot days I generally dread. But up in the balloon we were comfortable, though the heat and humidity limited our long distance views of the White Mountains of New Hampshire, and made our photos less than distinct. Still, I felt like Zeus as I looked down on the world.
Floating Above Still Water
We approached the Connecticut River, but the winds were not right for a river crossing. Shortly before the sun disappeared Brian spotted a postage-stamp parking lot at a boat launch on the Pompanoosuc River. He gave directions to our chase car and Tina Foster, the driver, arrived and screeched to a halt. He threw down a wide nylon web line to her so she could guide us in. Brian called out to people at the boat launch, asking for help pulling us toward the designated stopping point. They did. Brain pulled a cord to release hot air from the balloon, and we gently descended. We landed spot on.
Even when we landed the adventure was not over. Half a dozen people helped us fold up the balloon, including Sophie, who appeared to be about 7 years old. We chatted and drank champagne and soft drinks with some of those who helped us – and found points of connection spanning decades and continents. It was a wonderful evening. I just wish my sister could have been there with us – but who knows? Maybe she was.
If You Go:
Where: Post Mills, Vermont, 20 minutes from Hanover, NH and Dartmouth College Who to contact: Brian Boland, Balloon Vermont, 802- 333-9254 Cost: $260 /person for a 60-90 minute flight Lodging: The Silver Maples Lodge and Cabins offers a package including lodging for 2 nights, Continental breakfast and the balloon ride for 2 adults for $725. http://www.ballooninnvermont.com/ or 803-333-4326. Silver Maple Lodge is one of Vermont’s oldest continuously operating country inns, with the main building dating back to the late 1700’s. Located in Fairlee, VT, just a few miles from Post Mills. (802) 333-4326 (802) 333-4326 (802) 333-4326 (802) 333-4326
Lebanon College: Gardening: A Practical Workshop. Garden writer Henry Homeyer will teach you the basics of organic vegetable and flower gardening. From garden design to seed-starting , planting, watering, weeding, mulching, and harvesting, this course will give each student practical knowledge of gardening. Tuesday nights from 6:30-8:30 for 5 weeks, April 3-May 2.Contact Lebanon College to reserve a spot for this5-part workshop www.lebanoncollege.edu or call 603-448-2445.
AVA Gallery, Lebanon. Henry will teach 3 classes at AVA Gallery this spring. You may sign up for one or all of these workshops:
Sculpting the Living Landscape: Starting Flowers from Seed April 9; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class
Sculpting the Living Landscape: Perfect Perennials for the Upper Valley Garden April 23; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class
Sculpting the Living Landscape: Organic Techniques for Enriching Soil and Managing Pests May 7; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class
Many a would-be gardener has been deterred from growing veggies or flowers outdoors because they’ve had a bad time with houseplants. “Garden? Not me! I’ve got a brown thumb.” If I’ve heard it once, I’ve heard it dozens of times. When I inquire, people tell me they’ve killed houseplants, even the so-called “bullet proof” ones.
More houseplants are killed by over-watering than by under-watering. Some inexperienced gardeners think they are being kind and attentive to their plants by watering often. But roots of most houseplants will rot if kept constantly wet. So my first rule of indoors plants is simple: only water a plant when the soil is dry to the touch. For most, that is no more than once a week. For some once every 3-4 weeks is adequate.
Some houseplants are grown for their blossoms and others for their lovely foliage. Foliage plants are generally the easiest: if it isn’t dead, it probably looks good.
Jade plant (Crassula ovate or C. argentea) is an easy plant that is almost trouble-free. It has thick, waxy succulent leaves that are round and shiny. The trunk is thick in mature plants, and is a smooth gray or brown. My friend Cindy Heath has one, and it languishes in her living room getting no care at all. I mean it gets little direct sunshine and if it gets a drink of water every couple of months, it’s lucky. Last summer I carried it outside on the porch for some sunshine, which prompted a growth spurt.
Jade plants are easy to propagate. Bernice Johnson of Cornish Flat, NH, showed me a jade plant that she started from a cutting 3 years ago that is now about 2 feet tall and 2 feet across. She said that to get a new plant she just snips off a short section of a branch with a leaf or two, and plants it, or sets it in water to root, then plants it. She plants her many houseplants in a mix of garden soil and compost she makes herself from leaves and garden waste. The soil drains well, which is important. She keeps the plant near a north window and waters it about once a month. I find a 50-50 mix of compost and potting soil is good for most houseplants.
Happy Griffiths of Lebanon, NH grows many houseplants, including both rosemary and bay. Those two not only produce handsome foliage, but also edible herbs for use in the kitchen. Both, she told me, like a cool environment with bright natural light. She keeps hers in an unheated sunroom that gets down below freezing on cold nights, but never very cold. Some forms of rosemary bloom annually, though other types do not.
If you grow rosemary indoors, you need to increase the water you give it starting in March, or even by mid- February. The sun is stronger, the days are longer, and the roots and leaves are beginning to grow. Even though it is a Mediterranean plant, if it gets totally dried out – as mine have in the past – the plant dies. Instead of once a week, water twice a week.
Clivia
I grow clivia (Clivia spp.) as a foliage plant – it has long, shiny strap-shaped leaves and requires virtually no care. I’ve had mine for more than 10 years and have never divided it nor fertilized it. Even so, once a year it sends up a flower spike with a big cluster of orange blossoms that last for a couple of weeks. I water it very irregularly –once a month, if I think of it. It doesn’t need direct light, which is nice as I have it in a pot too big for the window sill. Its leaves stand about 30 inches tall.
Another nice foliage plant is aloe (Aloe vera)). It is a succulent that needs little watering, rarely has pests, and survives wherever you plunk it. A nice benefit is that if you cut a leaf and rub the juice on a burn or insect bite it will soothe your skin.
Bernice Johnson grows lots of old fashioned geraniums (Pelargonium spp.) that she keeps on sunny window sills. When I visited her recently she had one in full bloom in her warm kitchen that also has a wood stove. Wood stoves generally are hard on houseplants – they make rooms too hot and too dry for most. But her geraniums thrive – in part because she waters them regularly. In the spring she will cut back the long stems and put them outside, pots and all, for the summer.
I recommend that everyone have a few houseplants. I have too many (including a large banana plant, a hibiscus tree, a nice clump of papyrus and many more). Plants make the interior air more humid, and some take out pollutants. And best of all, they keep my hand in gardening activities all winter long.
Visit Henry’s Web site, www.Gardening-guy.com for more information and photos of houseplants. His e-mail is henry.homeyer@comcast.net
Web Extras: Other House Plants I Grow
Another great foliage plant I grow is a banana “tree”. They don’t get woody, even in the tropics, but can get tall – even in the house. I got a small one 5 years ago and have been growing it in a large pot since then. In the summer it is outside, and in the winter I keep it in a west-facing window. Well, not in the window,but on the floor near the window. The banana has yet to produce fruit, but it has made 3 or 4 shoots that I intend to separate next summer and put in individual pots. My banana is now 4 feet tall, and has never had aphids or other pests.
The exception to the rule, “Don’t overwater” is the papyrus. It needs to grow in a constantly wet location. I planted a small one a few years ago in a nice Chinese vase that has no hole. I water until the water is saturated and standing water is above the soil line. I grow mine in an east-facing window. The stems get to be 3-feet tall, with nice lacy fronds.
Pineapple plants, decorative ones, are also on the market this year. I got one at a florist shop and it is very nice. It has a miniature pineapple on a stem above the foliage, but it will never get big – or edible.
Lebanon College: Gardening: A Practical Workshop. Garden writer Henry Homeyer will teach you the basics of organic vegetable and flower gardening. From garden design to seed-starting , planting, watering, weeding, mulching, and harvesting, this course will give each student practical knowledge of gardening. Tuesday nights from 6:30-8:30 for 5 weeks, April 3-May 2.Contact Lebanon College to reserve a spot for this5-part workshop www.lebanoncollege.edu or call 603-448-2445.
AVA Gallery, Lebanon. Henry will teach 3 classes at AVA Gallery this spring. You may sign up for one or all of these workshops:
Sculpting the Living Landscape: Starting Flowers from Seed April 9; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class
Sculpting the Living Landscape: Perfect Perennials for the Upper Valley Garden April 23; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class
Sculpting the Living Landscape: Organic Techniques for Enriching Soil and Managing Pests May 7; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class
Each year I rejoice at the coming of the flower shows – they bring a taste of spring. By the time they arrive I‘m more than ready for blooming daffodils and tulips; I hunger for leafy trees and shrubs – even indoors. And I like their ambience: it’s like strolling down the midway at a country fair – but the products are different. Instead of trying to win a bear, I take a chance buying new and different bulbs or plants I can’t get in the ground for another 3 months. The hawkers, instead of selling temporary tattoos and Harley tee shirts, are selling garlic peeler/dicers and handy gadgets for cleaning floors.
The season starts February 11-12 with the New Hampshire Orchid Society’s annual show in Nashua, NH at the Radisson Hotel. Admission is $10, $6 for seniors. It’s a small specialty show, but nice. www.nhorchids.org.
Rhode Island Flower Show Sand Sculpture
The first big one, The Rhode Island Show, occurs February 23-26, and I can’t wait! I went last year for the first time and loved it. They have a wonderful line-up of speakers and educators showing slides and sharing wisdom. There is a real independent bookstore with hundreds of different titles of gardening books – I could stand there all afternoon, just thumbing through them. There are artists, craft producers and –get this – sand castles ten feet tall! (Someone brings in truckloads of sand and artists make a wonderland of castles with moats and gnomes and fairy princesses. It was fabulous last year, and will be there this year, too)
Last year the Rhode Island Show had competitions to see who could make the best sculpture using vegetables and fruit. There were garden hats decorated with flowers and –can you believe it? – women’s bathing suits made of leaves and flowers (displayed on mannequins, not gardeners!) There was beautiful stonework for inspiration, and lots and lots of plants – this year there will be 100,000 blossoms, I’m told. They are adding a food and wine section to the show in conjunction with Johnson and Wales College of Culinary Arts, among others. The show is at the Rhode Island Convention Center, Providence. Tickets $18-15. www.flowershow.com.
That weekend (February 24-26) is also the Connecticut Flower Show in Hartford. I went last year after leaving Providence and it was pretty crowded that Saturday – Saturdays anywhere are the busiest, and to be avoided if possible. It has over 300 booths and 80 workshops to attend over the course of the weekend. This year the theme is “Fabulous Fifties”. Tickets are $16. www.ctflowershow.com.
Next comes the Flower and Patio Show in Worcester, Massachusetts at the DCU Center March 2-4. I’ve never attended, but from what I’ve heard a major emphasis is on patios, outdoor furniture and the like. Tickets are $10. www.centralmaflowershow.com.
The Portland, Maine show is March 8-11 at the Portland Company Complex. Tickets are $15. www.portlandcompany.com.
If you don’t mind traveling, the Philadelphia Flower Show is March 4-11. Admission is $27, but the show is huge – and has gorgeous displays – it’s worth a visit if you can afford the trip. www.theflowershow.com.
Boston Flower Show Stone Sculpture
The Boston Flower Show is always a big event. It’s at the Seaport World Trade Center, March 14-18. I went last year and liked it despite the crowds. Admission is $20. Lots of displays, lots of garden paraphernalia for sale- plan a full day. This year’s theme is “First Impressions” – stressing the “Wow! Factor”. www.masshort.org.
New Hampshire has the Seacoast Home and Garden Show each year at the Whittemore Arena in Durham. This year the dates are March 24-25 and tickets cost $8. www.homegardenflowershow.com.
Bangor, ME has a show April 6-8 at Bangor Auditorium. Tickets are only $5. www.bangorgardenshow.com.
The Vermont show, always one of my favorites, is now held only every other year and is not happening this year.
Whimsy at the Vermont Flower Show
And for those of you with deep pockets, there is the Chelsea Flower Show in London, England May 22-26. Definitely on my list of places to go before I kick the bucket, I’ve never been, alas. It sounds incredible. www.rhs.org.uk/shows.
I try to go to at least 3 flower shows each year. There is something about the scent of flowers in winter that draws me in, and there is always much to learn at the lectures and demonstrations. Maybe I’ll see you at one.
Henry Homeyer’s web site is www.Gardening-guy.com. Go there to see photos of last year’s shows. His e-mail is henry.homeyer@comcast.net
Lebanon College: Gardening: A Practical Workshop. Garden writer Henry Homeyer will teach you the basics of organic vegetable and flower gardening. From garden design to seed-starting , planting, watering, weeding, mulching, and harvesting, this course will give each student practical knowledge of gardening. Tuesday nights from 6:30-8:30 for 5 weeks, April 3-May 2.Contact Lebanon College to reserve a spot for this5-part workshop www.lebanoncollege.edu or call 603-448-2445.
AVA Gallery, Lebanon. Henry will teach 3 classes at AVA Gallery this spring. You may sign up for one or all of these workshops:
Sculpting the Living Landscape: Starting Flowers from Seed April 9; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class
Sculpting the Living Landscape: Perfect Perennials for the Upper Valley Garden April 23; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class
Sculpting the Living Landscape: Organic Techniques for Enriching Soil and Managing Pests May 7; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class
I made a nice omelet for breakfast Sunday morning that had (in addition to the regulars of eggs, cheese and onion) parsnips and kohlrabi saved from my garden. The kohlrabi gave crunch, but not much flavor. The parsnips, however, were fabulous. They added zing – real garden flavor in January. I could have used carrots, beets, potatoes, celeriac or rutabagas, all of which I still have from my garden. I really like growing much of my own food – and saving it for use all winter is something I’ve worked hard on. It’s easy, and if you are studying those seed catalogs now, you might think about the veggies you can store well for winter eating.
Root crops like those mentioned above store well at 35-50 degrees, with high humidity – and a low rodent population. That’s right, mice and squirrels like root crops, so storing those veggies requires that you have a system. In past years I’ve stored root crops in 5-gallon pails in a cement-block “cold cellar” with an insulated plywood lid. The cold cellar was installed in a cold part of my basement and it kept my huge potato crop nicely. But mice can slip through the tiniest sliver of space, and sometimes did. So this year I’m trying something new.
Through the town list serve I obtained a free refrigerator, which I installed in my basement. It’s not new, but serviceable. I’m storing my root crops in it, and it is doing a fine job. No rodents to worry about, and it keeps the crops at a steady 35 degrees. Its only imperfection is that fridges are designed to maintain a lower humidity than my vegetables prefer.
Only the 2 vegetable drawers allow me to maintain high humidity, so for the rest I use plastic bins of veggies covered with moist towels. I also have a jute-lined wire bin that I use for carrots and parsnips. I layered them
Blue Hubbard Squash
with moist sand last fall, which keeps the humidity right (available from Gardeners Supply www.gardeners.com). Of all my root crops, rutabagas seem to require the highest humidity, so I place those in the drawers of the fridge.
But not all veggies like cool, moist storage. Winter squash like low humidity and a temperature of about 50 degrees. I don’t have the perfect place for them, but if you have an unheated guest bedroom, that’s perfect. Onions and garlic like the same type of environment. Last year I stored a blue Hubbard squash for more than 12 months! It grows a leather-like skin which protects the interior nicely, and when I finally cracked it open around Thanksgiving the flesh was perfect!
Some years I find my Waltham butternut squashes store for 6 months or more without problems, and then some years they tend to rot. I imagine it has to do with the moisture level at harvest time. I’ve read that washing winter squash before storage and then dipping them in a 10% Clorox solution will minimize fungal rot, and I have done it, but cannot swear that it makes much of a difference.
The freezer is always great for storing veggies, so I am currently using 2 full-size freezers in the basement, and the big freezer section in my kitchen fridge. Each summer I fill gallon bags with whole tomatoes that I freeze for winter use in soups and stews. I suck out the air from the bag with a straw, which minimizes frost on the fruit – it’s almost as good as using one of those machines sold for the purpose, but much cheaper. I just zip the bag shut (up to the straw) and once the bag is clinging to the fruit, I slide out the straw and close the bag shut.
Here’s a list of what I am still eating from my garden, in addition to the veggies mentioned above: frozen broccoli, kale, Brussels sprouts, leeks, peppers, beans, zucchini, winter squash, parsley, pesto, corn and peaches bought for winter use, raspberries, black berries, blueberries, plums, elderberries and apples and cider. I have tomato sauce in jars and in the freezer, along with tomato paste in the freezer. Then I have dehydrated Sungold cherry tomatoes, apples, blueberries, hot peppers on the shelf of the pantry or in the fridge. And of course I have lots and lots of garlic (stored whole in a cool, dry location), and a variety of winter squashes including butternut, buttercup and delicata.
But back to that blue Hubbard squash: There is something inherently daunting about a 20 pound squash. First there is cracking it open (I use a meat cleaver, but a saw or a wood splitter would work, too, I suppose).
Processing Blue Hubbard Squash
Then there is the question of what to do with all that squash – when I finally did process it, it yielded 25 cups of pure food.
I placed big chunks of squash in my 16-quart stock pot with an inch of water and steamed it. When the flesh was soft I scooped it out and used some for a soup and froze the rest in zipper bags for later soups. My favorite soup using winter squash (based on one I ate while a Peace Corps volunteer in West Africa) also has peanut butter, hot peppers, fresh ginger, cumin and frozen tomatoes or tomato paste. I sometimes add black beans or kale for variety. It’s a good hearty winter soup that warms the body and soul. It’s great to be eating out of the garden in January. For the complete recipe, and one for roasted spicy squash seeds, go to my web site, www.Gardening-Guy.com. Bon appétit.
Henry Homeyer is the author of 4 gardening books. Contact him at P.O. Box 364, Cornish Flat, NH 03746 or by e-mail at henry.homeyer@comcast.net
Henry’s African Squash and Peanut Soup
This is my interpretation of a soup served throughout West Africa that I learned to love while living in Cameroon and Mali. You can vary the proportions according to your taste – a lot of hot pepper or a little; a lot of peanut butter or not so much. Improvising is good: I have been known to add kale or even fresh cranberries to it. Bon Appétit!
8 cups steamed winter squash, preferably Hubbard, but use what you have. 8 cups water 2 onions 2-4 cloves of garlic 4 fresh jalapeno peppers, chopped, or 1 tsp ground dry jalapeno (add peppers in small portions until you decide how much you like) 2 stalks celery or half a large celeriac (which I use, because I grow it), chopped 6oz tomato paste ½ cup peanut butter 3 tablespoons grated fresh ginger ¼ teaspoon cinnamon ¼ teaspoon cardamom ½ teaspoon cumin 2-3 sprigs fresh rosemary, or 1 teaspoon Herbes de Provence or dry rosemary 2-3 bay leaves 2 Tablespoons honey (optional) Salt and pepper to taste
Cooking Directions: Blend the cooked squash with water in food processor, add to a large heavy kettle in which you have sautéd the onions, garlic and celery. Add the other ingredients and let simmer for an hour or two. If you wish you can stretch the soup by adding more water.
Spicy Squash or Pumpkin Seeds
Remove and clean the seeds from a large winter squash or pumpkin and allow to dry for a day or more on a plate. Oil a large cast iron frying pad and add seeds. Keep heat at medium. Stir in chili powder or hot pepper powder according to your taste. A pinch of cumin can add zing. Add salt to taste. Roast until the seeds are dark brown, stirring regularly to avoid burning.
January is generally an all-white month in my garden, though this year the snow has been off to a slow start. I love the curves of drifts, the smoothness of open spaces, the contrast between snow and the outlines of my trees, shrubs, arbors and stonework. Snow can create free sculpture in the garden – even without making snowmen.
In many gardens, however, winter is a boring time: without flowers, the garden is largely empty of interest. On a brilliant, blue-sky day I decided to visit an outdoor sculpture garden to enjoy a garden that is full of three-dimensional interest in winter. I wanted to see not only the sculpture, but the trees, shrubs and paths of the deCordova Sculpture Park and Museum in Lincoln, Massachusetts.
The deCordova was once the summer home of Julian de Cordova (1851-1945), a Jamaican by birth, who made his money as a tea broker and President of Union Glass Company. It is now offers a 35-acre sculpture park with 60 works of art, a museum (once his brick castle), a store, café and classroom space. When I visited, the museum was closed for the installation of a new show which opens January 22.
I spent about 3 hours looking at the outdoor sculpture and studying the landscape to see what I might be able to do on my own property – or that you might on yours. I am not an artist and have no budget for sculpture, but I had a great experience looking at contemporary sculpture of New England artists – the focus of the deCordova – and the landscape.
Stone Gateway At deCordova
Leaving the parking lot on foot, I was immediately drawn to a glade of trees and shrubs that had a lovely collection of decorative grasses and a stone entrance created by cutting a doorway into large piece of granite. Any arbor or entry catches my eye, and draws me to – and through – it. Passing through this doorway, I ascended a gentle hill which had natural ledge exposed and other cut stone pieces added. Evergreen rhododendrons and tall pines provided texture and color. It was lovely.
At the top of the incline was an open lawn surrounded by majestic oaks and populated with large sculptures. I continued on, climbing a rocky hillside, following a pathway. Paths are great for moving visitors along, particularly in a multi-level landscape – I always want to move forward to see what lies ahead.
In the course of my visit I walked on several types of paths – gravel, grass, stone and pavement. The most interesting to me, and one that can easily be copied without having a big budget, was quite simple: an arrangement of stepping stones. By that I mean that the stones were not flush to the ground, but a few inches above it; each stone was anywhere from 18-48 inches in width and/or length. Due to the irregularity in size and shape, and the fact that each stone was separated from the next by 6-12 inches, the visitor is required to slow down and step carefully.
Steppingstone Walkway
I’d never seen a stepping stone walk like this in a public space. It is not wheelchair accessible (though wheelchairs could travel on the hard-packed smooth lawn near the pathway), and it would be easy to trip and fall if not paying attention. Still, I liked the fact that I could not rush along it. If you have a garden with interesting small flowers, a stepping stone path would be one way to keep visitors moving through the garden slowly to see them – or your sculpture.
At the far end of one path was a 3-foot tall retaining wall on which visitors had made their own sculpture, which delighted me. The wall was decorated with small cairns – 3-6 small stones placed in a pile. I made one myself. Again, this is something you can easily do on your own landscape – now, in winter. You can see a short video of the cairns here:
In order for your cairn to survive, given the movement of the ground as it freezes and thaws, you need to build it on a stable base such as a stone wall. But if you accept that your stone sculpture may tumble down by spring, you can build one anywhere. I’ve seen cairns that are 3 feet or more feet tall but a nice collection of stones can be just a few inches. Place them carefully so that when you lightly touch the stones they don’t fall.
Pine Cone Sculptures
Sculptor Ronald Gonzalez created a site specific installation, a collection of human-like figures made of pine cones and steel. This is something that I could do, even though my artistic talents are (very) limited. He made simple stick figures of steel rebar, then attached (with wire) various sized cones to create heads and bodies. He created a tribe of them – a dozen or so – standing inside a circle of evergreen trees. I almost missed it when I walked by – but then let out a shout of glee when I saw it. Art? That’s for each viewer to say – but it was fun to see, and I might just create one – for winter interest.
So if your garden is flat and boring in winter, visit the deCordova to see what ideas you can bring home with you – and create something that will tickle your fancy and delight your eye next winter. See below some of the other sculptures at the deCordova:
Sisters, Bob Boemig
Black Hearts, Jim Dine
Laid, Martha Friedman
Humming, Jaume Plensa
Cleopatra's Needles, Liz Glynn
Listening Stone, Joseph Wheelwright
Henry Homeyer is the author of four gardening books and writes a self-syndicated column on organic gardening that appears in 12 newspapers throughout New England. Henry’s Web site is www.Gardening-gGuy.com.
I am, at heart, an optimist. I believe that the rodents will leave my tulip bulbs alone, so last fall I planted plenty. I believe that the Zone 5 perennials I planted last summer in my zone 4 garden will survive the winter. I believe that late blight will not return next summer to ravage my tomatoes the way it did in 2010. But I also try to learn from my mistakes – and from the mistakes of others. Each winter about this time I like to reflect on the past year’s gardening efforts and make resolutions about what to do – or not – this coming summer.
Easy Care Shrub, Fothergilla Major
This year I also asked some readers what resolutions they are making, and I’m going to share a few of their thoughts. I’ve had to edit and condense a few, so forgive me if I’ve edited yours – or left it out completely.
As the owner of a corgi, I liked this resolution, from Maria van Beuren: “I will plant the garden without assistance, however enthusiastic, from small dogs.” She provided this back story, which made me laugh:” I crawled down the row, carefully doling out tiny carrot seeds and tenderly covering them. Reached end of row and looked back to see that two puppies had concluded that I needed their expertise in digging and had come along behind me, efficiently trenching. Needless to say, most of the carrot plants I grew last year were oddly distributed in the garden.”
Nelson and Brenda Barter solved the carrot spacing problem (the seeds are small and hard to space properly), saying “We’ve learned that we really like premeasured seed strips for some applications. We always had trouble growing carrots and beets from seed packets, we’d thin them but they’d still bunch up and grow poorly or leave bare patches. We’ve had really good luck with both carrots and beets since we started using the strips; for us, they’re worth the small additional cost.” So try those, next year, Maria.
A number of readers said they were going to downsize next year. Tom Brennan had an interesting way of doing that – stay away from the catalogs:, “I’m going to make my garden smaller. At 79 it takes a lot longer to get things like weeding and cultivating done. BUT the drawback is I see something in a seed catalog and I’d like to try that, or something is said to be the very best tasting – and what’s one more row? So I think I won’t look at catalogs this year.”
Readers Donna and Bill Heroux wrote saying, “Instead of planting just one variety of radish, we’re going to plant an assortment-lots of colors, lots of flavors.” Now that is a resolution that I suspect will be kept – unlike some others which were much more ambitious.
Speaking of ambitious, Carol Mayer wrote, “Ditch the perennials and plant the trees and shrubs” is my motto for 2012. I plan to “garden smarter, not harder” as so many of us are saying now. I’ll keep the hostas and other easy care perennials but those that must be dug, divided, and replanted every 2-3 years must go.” Now that is a great resolution, but it sounds like a lot of work. More than will be done in 2012. And if Carol is like me, it’s very hard to shoot a plant – or throw it on the compost pile.
Might I suggest a modified resolution, Carol? How about this: Dig up 10 or 20 perennials and have a “yard” sale? Then use the money to buy those nice shrubs you want. A big perennial can often be divided into 6 smaller plants that still will sell like hotcakes at $2-3 each. Invite everyone from your garden club or even your entire e-mail address book! Twenty perennials can earn you a couple of hundred dollars. One last suggestion: pot them up nicely in the spring, and then sell them in mid-June when the plants have recovered from the move and look good. And remember that nothing sells better than a plant with blooming flowers!
June in Henry's Garden
Meanwhile Marta Smith had a different approach – “My resolution is to not get carried away and end up planting too many plants for the space I have. My plants were too crowded and consequently did not produce as well as they should have. I will plant less and hopefully reap more, or maybe I will just turn the whole yard into garden space! Who needs a lawn anyway?”
Judy Hallam wrote, saying, “From now on I will only use slow release fertilizer in my garden boxes and containers for healthier, thicker plants. She added, “PS: This was your suggestion, Henry!” Thanks, Judy, Glad somebody pays attention to what I write!
And on a more philosophical note, I’d like to end with this from my friend David Zoffoli, who wrote, “I resolve to not worry about weeding, to go outside when it rains and enjoy life with the plants; to continue to order way too many annual seeds that I don’t plant; to plant more trees for birds, and to eat a pint of blueberries straight from the bush.” In other words, relax and enjoy the garden!
As for me? I resolve to try moderation in everything I do – even though it’s not my inclination! Thanks to all of you who wrote, and my best to all gardeners for 2012.
Henry Homeyer is available to speak at your gardening club or library. His Web site is www.Gardening-Guy.com. E-mail him at henry.homeyer@comcast.net
I know people who take down their Christmas trees right after Christmas. I am not one of them. I think of my tree as a holiday tree, or even a winter tree. I like to keep it up at least until Ground Hog’s Day, and once, when I had a really fresh one, I kept it up until St Patrick’s Day. I like trees outdoors, but having lights and green branches indoors helps dispel the gloom of winter.
Because I keep my tree up longer than most, I keep my eyes peeled for trees set by the side of the road – discarded or unsold. I consider the branches of evergreens to be gold, and bring home unwanted trees. Why? I use the branches to protect delicate plants. You can, too, so don’t throw yours out when it comes down.
Snow is a great insulator, and in recent years we‘ve had lots of snow most of the winter, starting in early December or even earlier. Not this year. It’s been warm and we’ve mostly had rain, not snow through November and December. Or we’ve had cold or snowy periods followed by warm days – a recipe for trouble. Plants do best if their roots don’t go though freeze-thaw cycles, especially plants in their first winter when the roots have not yet extended far and wide.
Freezing and thawing of soil can push plants up out of the soil, or crack the frozen soil open, exposing roots to air – which is generally lethal. Which brings me back to those Christmas trees: I cut off branches and use them as mulch around or over new or tender plants.
Protecting Perennials
This year I planted 3 Himalayan blue poppy plants (Mecanopsis betonicifolia) to replace a clump that died in the winter of 2010-11. My ground is frozen now, and I want it to stay frozen, so I cut some evergreen boughs and placed them over those poppies. A 6-8 inch layer of evergreen branches will do much to keep the soil frozen if we have a few warm days. Of course a week of warm rain will penetrate even that, but there is only so much a gardening guy can do.
I have used Christmas tree boughs to protect tender shrubs by covering their branches, too. I lean the branches up against a tender rose, for example, creating a teepee that protects the above ground portion of the plant as well as its roots. Strong cold winds can kill flower buds – or entire branches of plants that really would rather be growing in Virginia, for example. I have occasionally piled straw or mulch hay over the branches for added protection.
Deer are not a problem for me: Daphne, my able-bodied, full throated corgi of great intelligence, is able to scare them away, even at night. I’m not sure how she does it, since she sleeps in her padded basket near the stove at night, not out protecting my shrubs. But deer rarely come – only passing to pick up fallen apples from time to time. (And once on Christmas Eve, before Daphne, they ate all my Brussels sprouts – though some think that damage might have been done by reindeer).
Protecting Shrubs in Winter
Deer repellents don’t work for long, and tall fencing for deer (8-feet is generally recommended to keep them out) is expensive. So what to do? Small shrubs like the yews favored as a front-of-the-house muffin-like decorations are easily wrapped in burlap, which will thwart even the most determined deer. Garden centers sell burlap by the yard, or in rolls. Wrap your shrub, and then keep it in place with some garden twine. This will also protect tender shrubs from winter winds.
Burlap is also good for protecting sections of the lawn. If your snowplow driver pushes sand and gravel up with the snow in a big pile at the end of the driveway, on your lawn, you will have lots of spring cleanup. If you lay down burlap (or black landscape fabric), you can catch all that messy detritus, making spring cleanup easier.
Don’t spread out a 20-foot section of material, however, as that would be impossible to move, come spring. Cut 6-foot sections and overlap them a little. If your ground is not frozen when you do this, I recommend pinning down the fabric with landscape staples.
One last idea for protecting plants in winter: you can spray your rhododendrons and azaleas with Wilt Pruf . It puts a clear waxy coating on the leaves to keep them from losing moisture and drying out once the ground has frozen and the plants cannot replace moisture lost on warm, sunny days. I’ve used this, and it does make a difference. According to their web site (www.wiltpruf.com) , the product is suitable for use by organic gardeners.
Basically I believe that plants should be able to survive on their own – without any special help from me. But I don’t always follow that rule, and protect plants, particularly young ones, from our cold winters.
Henry Homeyer is the author of 4 gardening books. His Web site is www.Gardening-Guy.com.
I have a confession to make: I added soil amendments last week without first getting my soil tested. I teach gardening, and the first thing I say about soil is it to get it tested before you do anything. But winter is coming, and I have a good idea what a soil test would tell me. So I added some limestone to my lawn around an aging maple tree, and I added sulfur around my blueberries.
Here’s what my thoughts were: I know that the acid rain we have leaches out calcium from the soil. Maple trees, in particular, suffer if they don’t have enough calcium, so I added some. I used a 28-oz can, spreading 6 containers of agricultural limestone in a circle with a radius of 25 feet around the tree.
Garden Sulfur
I know that blueberries like very acid soil, and that adding some sulfur is a good thing, especially since I haven’t done so in a couple of years. Blueberries perform best when the soil is between pH 4.5 and 5.5, and my soil is probably about pH 6.0. In a 6-foot diameter circle around each bush I sprinkled 1 pound of garden sulfur, which should help.
I recently spoke to soil scientist Dr. Wendy-Sue Harper of Monkton, Vermont to see what she recommended we do at this time of year. Her strongest recommendation was to make sure we cover up any bare soil with leaves, straw or mulch hay. She said that if you have cleaned up the vegetable garden and bare soil is exposed, it’s likely that some of your all-important top soil will wash or blow away before next spring. Gardens on any slope are especially vulnerable to erosion.
Some gardeners take soils for granted. They spread some 10-10-10 fertilizer on the soil in the spring or water with a liquid chemical fertilizer in summer, and they get tomatoes and carrots. But I recommend compost and organic fertilizers because they nourish the beneficial organisms in the soil. In preparing for this article I read a book on soils called, Teaming with Microbes: The Organic Gardener’s Guide to the Soil food Web by Jeff Lowenfels and Wayne Lewis. The book, which is highly technical, makes the point that good soil is chock-full of living organisms, millions in a teaspoon, and that any chemical, including chemical fertilizers, reduce the numbers of living organisms in the soil.
The authors explain that chemical fertilizers are salts. You probably know what happens if you sprinkle salt on a slug. It dies. The same happens to your beneficial microbes when you add chemical fertilizers.
Lowenfels and Lewis explain that the microbes in your soil contain not only nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium (the contents of chemical fertilizer) but also all the micronutrients needed by plants but not found in chemical fertilizer. Bacteria, fungi and other microbes hold onto nutrients in their bodies, only releasing them when they die or are eaten by other organisms. The chemical nutrients in these microbes are in a form that can be absorbed easily by roots of plants when released in the soil.
The area right around the roots of your plants is especially full of microbes. Why? Because plants roots give off excess sugars. Plants produce extra sugars by photosynthesis during the day, and exude sugars at night. That may sound crazy, but it isn’t: plants and microbes in a healthy organic soil share nutrients, helping each other. Plants benefit by having fungi surrounding their roots because fungi hold water and minerals that they share with the plants; fungi benefit by getting food from the plants. It’s a win-win situation.
Fungi produce acids and enzymes that can dissolve minerals that plants cannot ingest. The tip of a fungal hypha (rootlet, if you will) can also breakdown cellulose and lignin, tough materials that contain useful ingredients for plant growth – recycling the nutrients.
As I explained in my book, The Vermont Gardener’s Companion, sandy soils have large particles and don’t hold onto water and minerals easily. Think of sandy soil as golf balls in a wire basket. Water flows right through. Add compost – like adding sponges to the basket of golf balls- and water and nutrients are retained.
Clay soils are more like a bowl of baker’s flour: fine particles that don’t let water pass through easily, and are sticky when wet. Loam is what we want: a mixture of particle sizes that allows water through, but retains water and minerals. Whether you have a clay soil or a sandy soil, the easiest way to get that fluffy, loose loam is to add compost.
Compost adds organic matter to feed the microbes in your soil, attracts beneficial earthworms, and improves drainage. You don’t want to be digging in your garden at this time of year, but you can spread some compost on the soil surface around perennials, shrubs, on the lawn and in the vegetable garden. Don’t walk in your beds now; they are wet and easily compacted, injuring soil structure.
So get your soil tested now, before the ground freezes solid. Come spring it takes 3 weeks or more to get test results from a soil test, as that’s when everyone else wants a test done, too. I recommend getting multiple soil tests: one for the vegetable garden, one for the flower beds, and from specialty locations like the lawn or blueberry patch. Contact your local University Extension Service, or go online.
Gardeners are easy to shop for. We all need the practical (rubber-palmed stretchy garden gloves, watering wands, garden scissors, plant labels) and appreciate the whimsical (a nice garden gnome to surprise the grandkids). Gardening books keep us occupied during the long winter nights, and garden tools keep us dreaming of perfect peonies. Here are some suggestions for the gardener you love.
This year I discovered Tubtrugs. They are multipurpose, brightly colored, somewhat flexible containers made of food grade plastic that I like to fill up with weeds. I also use them when harvesting veggies or carrying hand tools; you can fill one with water to soak a dry potted plant or wash a small dog. They are easy to carry – handholds are built in. They come in 4 sizes from about 4 gallons to about 20 gallons. I have the 2 smaller sizes, which cost $11-14. Available at your local garden center or from www.tubtrugs.com.
As much as I don’t like plastic, I found another plastic product that is very handy: an Oxo brand watering can. As with other Oxo products, I find it not only functional, but handsome – and these come in a variety of colors. I like that the spout lets you see the water level inside when filling it up, and it rotates for storage (snuggling up, sort of, against the reservoir). The rose, which breaks the stream of water into a spray, is very fine for watering delicate plants, but I often just pull that off and water directly from the slender spout. They come in 2 sizes: 2 gallon ($28) and an indoor model that is just 3 quarts ($18). Available locally or on line.
Each year I have to tout my favorite weeding tool, the CobraHead Weeder, as it works so darn well, and I have met so many gardeners that just love it. It is a single piece of steel with a small, eye-shapede head and a curved handle. It has a nice bright blue, recycled plastic handle. It gets under weeds to pull from below while I tug on the topside; I use it when planting, too, stirring up the soil and teasing out grass roots. I like that it serves lefties as well as righties, and is light enough to please elderly weeders as well as big lunks like me. Cost? About $25. Available locally or at www.cobrahead.com or 1-866-962-6272.
Holiday Gifts for the Gardener
Books help get gardeners through the winter. We read and plan when we can’t weed and plant. I recently got a very handsome, glossy-photo book by Jeremy and Emily Gettle, co-owners of Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds. He is quite a character – he started at age 3 and was growing 2 acres of vegetables by age 18. He started his own seed company when he was just 22 years old and now 33, he has quite a large operation – and a book.
The book, The Heirloom Life Gardener: the Baker Creek Way of Growing Your Own Food Easily and Naturally, is interesting and full of personal stories and anecdotes by Jeremy. He is opinionated, which I like, too. Best of all, it has a directory of garden vegetables that not only tells you how he grows them, but guides you to save your own seeds. It’s $30 in hardcover.
Another book I like is Ancestral Plants: A Primitive Skills Guide to Important Edible, Medicinal and Useful Plants of the Northeast by Arthur Haines. This is a fascinating technical book for survivalists, among others. It tells you not only about edible and medicinal plants, but which ones to use for making your own rope or are useful when starting a fire without matches. Haines is young (forty-one), and a serious scholar, having just written a 1,000 page taxonomy of plants.
Haine’s book gives information available in no other book I have found. So, for example, he tells you to eat eastern prickly gooseberries one at a time so that the crushing of the berry is done with teeth, not the palate (to avoid the prickles), and that it is high in Vitamin C, antioxidants and pectin so it can easily be made into jam. Each plant has at least 2 excellent color photos and 2 pages of text. $23 in paper available locally, or from www.anaskimin.org.
Each year I find some nice products from Gardeners Supply Company in Burlington, VT (www.gardeners.com or 888-833-1412). This year I like their pesto storage cubes for freezing pesto or tomato paste. They have attached lids, and fit into trays for storage. At $7.95 for 8 cubes they are a good gift. I also like their Root Storage Bin which costs $34.95. It is a sturdy wire bin lined with jute fabric designed to hold carrots, beets etc. in a cool dark cellar. It allows you to layer moist sand in it, keeping the veggies from drying out. It fits in a fridge I use for storing veggies. They also sell the Tubtrugs mentioned above. Since Gardeners Supply is an employee-owned company that supports lots of good causes, I enjoy supporting them, too.
I’ve been using LED lights this fall to pamper my houseplants, and I find my plants are much healthier this year. Best of all, for 42 watts of electricity I am getting the equivalent of 250 watts of light, and the spectrum of light, the company says, is just right for making plants happy. I got mine from Sunshine Systems (www.sunshine-systems.com or 866-576-5868). Each unit costs about $150 and is suitable for illuminating 5 square feet of plant space. The lights are designed to let you connect several together, which is handy.
Lastly, as an author I would be remiss if I didn’t mention my own new book: Organic Gardening (Not Just) in the Northeast: A Hands-On, Month-by-Month Guide (Bunker Hill Publishing). It’s a collection of my best writings from the past 10 years, organized around the calendar year. It’s $17.50 from your local bookstore or from my website (www.Gardening-guy.com).
So give Santa a hand. Go get something nice for the gardener in your family. And remember to try buying local first: local bookstores, local garden centers – only buy on the Web as a last resort! And Happy Holidays to you all.
Henry Homeyer is the author of 4 gardening books. His Web site is www.Gardening-guy.com.
Click Here to buy from Cobrahead
Another great foliage plant I grow is a banana “tree”. They don’t get woody, even in the tropics, but can get tall – even in the house. I got a small one 5 years ago and have been growing it in a large pot since then. In the summer it is outside, and in the winter I keep it in a west-facing window. Well, not in the window,but on the floor near the window. The banana has yet to produce fruit, but it has made 3 or 4 shoots that I intend to separate next summer and put in individual pots. My banana is now 4 feet tall, and has never had aphids or other pests.
