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Planting Bare Root Roses

I would hazard a guess that 90% of all roses sold to the general public are sold as plants in pots. That's the easy way to get a rose. But if you want to save money, or find roses of particular specifications, you might want to try buying bare root roses. Some garden centers sell them, and there are hundreds of options on the world wide web. Now is the time to do so as most companies stop shipping by the end of May.

There is nothing tricky about planting bare root roses. The only thing you have to figure out is where the bud union is - which is to say where the roots and the special rose you ordered were grafted together. That's easy: it's where you see the stems branching out from the root and lower stem section. Here in the Northeast that bud union needs to be buried at planting time so that if the above-ground portion of the rose gets killed by a cold winter, there is still some viable plant material beneath the ground to sprout new shoots of the rose you bought (not the root stock) come spring.

Whether planting a bare root rose or one in a pot, start by selecting a spot that gets plenty of sunshine. The more sun, the more blossoms - it's as simple as that. Six hours is fine. Four is minimal. Full shade? Forget about it. Avoid areas near trees, as the roots of trees will compete for moisture and nutrients.

Plan on digging a hole 24-30 inches wide, and a little deeper than the roots of your rose. Put the soil into a wheelbarrow, and mix in five gallons of composted manure with the soil. Add a cup of organic fertilizer and half a cup of rock phosphate if you have it, and the same quantity of agricultural limestone. Stir well. Then toss in a couple of shovels of compost in the hole, and stir it in. An old time rosarian told me to put an 8-penny nail or two into the bottom of the hole for added iron, though I fail to see that a nail will do much. But I do it anyway, just for good luck.

From your wheelbarrow add soil to the bottom of the hole, creating a mound for your rose roots to sit on. Place the rose on the mound and spread out the roots; jiggle it a little to help it settle it in. Then re-fill the hole with your improved soil, firming the soil around the rose with your hands. When you are done planting, the bud union should be 2-4 inches below the surface of the soil.

Your bare root rose has been kept refrigerated and is dormant. You want the roots to wake up and start growing before the top part sends out shoots and develops leaves. The roots need to be able to deliver water and nutrients to the growing top. To keep the top dormant, cover the stems with bark chips or mulch. This will keep the stems cool and in the dark. After a week or 10 days begin removing the wood chips, a little every day. The top will then wake up and start to send out shoots and leaves.

I planted two varieties of English roses that I got from David Austin Roses (David Austin Roses), a double pink one called Mayflower, an Old Rose Hybrid; the other is a yellow double named Charlotte, an English Musk Rose. Both are fragrant, and should re-bloom all summer if I cut back the stems after each flush of blooms. Roses, given good soil, moisture and sunshine, are tremendously vigorous and can produce numerous blossoms from a bare root plant the first season.

English roses are not generally hardy in this climate, so I have grown them as annuals in the past. But I met Michael Marriott, Technical manager of David Austin roses when I was at a garden writer's conference in Oregon last fall, and he believed these two should winter over here, particularly if I cover the bases with mulch after the ground freezes. It is certainly worth a try.

Many organic gardeners avoid roses, thinking that they are too finicky, and that they need to be sprayed with toxic chemicals to prevent fungal diseases and to keep insect pests from decimating them. That is not my experience. If roses are planted in soil rich in organic matter, they will do well. I believe that chemical fertilizers force fast weak growth, which attracts insects and diseases. Although Japanese beetles are attracted to the scent of fragrant roses, hand picking every morning will generally keep damage to a minimum. And picking beetles encourages you to get out in the garden every day - and to take time to smell the roses.

Henry Homeyer is a gardening coach and garden designer, the author of 3 gardening books, and a UNH Extension Master Gardener. Contact him at henry.homeyer@comcast.net.