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             The Gardener Guy of Tulsa, Oklahoma

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Starting Seeds

There are two schools of thoughts on artichokes. I am of the school that believes they need to be tricked into thinking that they are in their second year of growth during the first year. That makes them produce artichokes sooner in the summer, and more reliably. But I know one grower that just starts them early in February and does well anyway, so who knows?

I usually start artichoke seeds in late February or early March; when they have true leaves that are 3 inches long, I transplant them into 4-inch pots. Then, a couple of weeks later, I move them to a cold space for two weeks to make them think they have gone through a winter. They must be kept cooler than 50 degrees, but above freezing. I do this in a cold basement under lights. Then I move them back upstairs where the temps stay in the sixties, but drop down a bit at night (which is good). I plant them outdoors after June 1. I give them a generous dose of organic fertilizer, compost, and keep their soil moist all summer. Just be sure to pick yours before the flowers start to open, or they'll be tough.

Onions can be grown from seed, sets, or from purchased seedlings. Starting from seed is best, but you need to get started soon if you're going to do this. Sets are those little bulbs that are for sale by the pound at garden centers each spring. They work, but I don't think they're as vigorous as those started from seedlings.

Onion seeds are tiny and hard to plant individually. I don't start them in plastic 6-packs, but rather those plastic containers that are like the 6-packs but have no divisions. I plant onion seeds in a 50-50 mix of commercial potting soil and high grade compost. I sprinkle seeds on the surface, water them, and then cover them with just a thin layer of potting soil that I put in a sieve or colander and shake over the surface. That gives a fine covering, but not so much as to bury the seeds deeply. Sometimes I sprinkle agricultural vermiculite instead of potting soil on the surface, as it holds water well and is very fine.

Like most vegetables, onions need lots of light when grown indoors. I set up 4-foot, 2-tube fluorescent fixtures over them. I hang the fixtures from jack chain about 6 inches above the tips of the plants, and raise the lights as they grow. In order to get strong, stout onion plants I give them a haircut when they are about 6 inches tall, taking off a couple of inches. Then, a few weeks later, I repeat the process. It's a good idea to water them with a dilute fish and seaweed fertilizer once a week.

Light frost is not a problem for onions, so I try to get mine outside and in the ground in late April or early May, spaced 4 inches apart in rows a foot apart or more. Closer spacing will yield smaller onions. Good soil with lots of organic matter is best, so I work in lots of compost. Onions do not tolerate weeds, so you must keep them well weeded. Their root systems are shallow, so be careful not to disturb them when weeding. It's important to keep onions well watered, too, if you want good production. 'Copra' is my favorite onion - a medium-sized yellow onion, it keeps until spring in the kitchen. It is generally available as seeds, sets or plants.

Peppers are notoriously slow growing, so I like to start them in early- to mid-March. I use an electric heat mat to keep the soil warm - I want them to think they're in Arizona. Our climate really isn't great for peppers. They do best with minimal water and hot temperatures, so they are good candidates for the greenhouse if you have one. Even a simple tunnel made of plastic pipe and plastic sheeting will help them along. My favorite is 'Hungarian Wax', a mildly spicy yellow pepper. For sweet peppers, Ace is probably the best.

Come April I'll plant lots more seeds, but for now starting even a few plants will help my attitude.

Henry Homeyer is the Vermont/NH associate editor of People, Places and Plants magazine. His web site is www.Gardening-Guy.com