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Winter Squash

One of my lunch companions recalled her father bringing lettuce to Vermont from Boston on the train 90 years ago, and how her school mates were amazed when she brought some to school. In an age when every grocery store sells not only lettuce, but tomatoes and strawberries year-round, winter squash may seem quaint. They're not. Winter squash can be a gourmet's delight.

As you peruse the seed catalogs, think about ordering some different winter squashes. Blue Hubbard is my old standby. Each plant only produces a couple of squash, but each is large - 10 to 15 lbs. They keep well in a cool room, but can get spotty and spoil before spring. I cut them up and steam them, scrape the meat off the rind, and run it through the food processor before freezing it in Ziploc bags.

This year I was introduced to Red Kuri squash. This is like a Hubbard, but sweeter, and with a thinner dark orange skin. Each plant produces 2-3 fruit weighing 4-7 pounds, a better size for most families.

A gardening friend gave me another great squash to taste this year, Marina di Chioggia. It is a 5-10 pound squash with a wrinkly blue-gray skin and rich orange flesh. It's a great soup squash. Not in my usual catalogs, I was only able to find it at Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds, 417-924-8917 or www.rareseeds.com. I talked to the owner, Jere Gettle, and was amazed at all they sell: they had 74 different kinds of winter squash, including Red Kuri, and literally 100's of other rare varieties of veggies. Jere started the business when he was 17, seven years ago!

So how should you cook these winter squash? Soup. Here's my favorite recipe based on my memory of a soup I ate in West Africa:

Spicy Squash and Peanut soup

• 6-8 cups cooked, pureed winter squash
• 6-8 cups water
• 2 large onions, chopped
• 2 stalks celery, finely chopped
• 2 tablespoons olive or other oil
• 4 oz tomato paste
• 1 cup dehydrated cherry tomatoes (optional)
• 1/4 - 1/2 cup peanut butter
• 1 chunk fresh ginger the size of a golf ball
• 1 rounded teaspoon Herbes de Provence (rosemary, thyme, and others are in this blend)
• 1/4 - 1/2 cup maple syrup
• spices to taste, approximately 1/4 teaspoon each: cinnamon, cardamom, and/or cumin
• Salt and pepper
• Hot pepper to taste (I use 1-2 teaspoons chipotle from New Mexico)

Saute onions and celery in a little olive oil until clear. Add squash and water, stir well and simmer on low heat. Work in the peanut butter, stirring well to dissolve.

Peel fresh ginger and grate, or easier yet, puree in food processor. Add to soup.

Add tomato products. We use our own dried Sun Gold cherry tomatoes.

Add spices and maple syrup, adjusting flavors as needed. Hot peppers really make this an African soup that warms the tummy on a cold night, but leave it out if you have a tender tongue.

When you make the soup, hold back some of the squash for this treat:

Sunday Morning Squash Waffles

• 2 eggs
• 2/3 cup mashed, cooked winter squash or pumpkin
• 3 tablespoons melted butter
• 1 cup milk
• 1-1/2 cups flour
• 1/4 cup sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon salt or to taste
• 2-1/2 teaspoons baking powder
• 1-1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
• 1 teaspoon nutmeg
• 1 tablespoon wheat germ

Next is a nice gentle soup - passed on a few times, but originally from Ginny Stickney, wherever she may be. I've changed it a little bit.

Pumpkin Bisque Soup

• 1 chopped onion, small
• 3 tablespoons butter
• 2 cups cooked, drained and pureed pumpkin or winter squash
• 2 cups milk
• 1 14-oz can chicken or veggie broth, or homemade equivalent
• 1 dash to 1/4 teaspoon each: ground ginger, nutmeg, allspice.
• 1/2 tsp salt
• 1/2 cup heavy cream or low-fat sour cream
• 1/4 cup sherry (or add a tablespoon in each bowl as desired)

Winter squash is easy to grow, but, too often boring when served plain. Try some new recipes, and you may wish to grow more winter squash this summer. Me? I have some butternut squash in my cold cellar that I've been meaning to bake, but I think I'll try using them in a soup. Maybe I'll use curry as the dominant spice this time. And if you please, send me your recipes!

Henry Homeyer is the VT/NH associate editor of People, Places and Plants magazine. His website is www.gardening-guy.com. He may be contacted at gardening.guy@valley.net, or P.O. Box 364, Cornish Flat, NH 03746.